It is freezing cold, the clock is ticking towards midnight, and we are standing on a frozen lake in the middle of nowhere in a remote valley outside of Tromso city in Northern Norway. It is so cold that the snow squeaks under our feet as we walk, and when we breathe out it looks as if we are smoking – the temperature has just dropped to a rather chilly minus seventeen degrees Celsius (1 degree Fahrenheit).

We are far away from the city with its lights and houses, surrounded by complete darkness. No lights except the faint glow from the camera screen. I have seldom felt this close to nature before, excited and hopeful…..will the Northern Lights show up this evening?!

And yes, it does to its fullest! We are lucky this evening and get to witness nature’s amazing fireworks – the magical Northern Lights in all its colors.

Espen enjoying the Northern Lights

Espen enjoying the Northern Lights

Northern Lights at Kattfjordeidet, Tromso

If you are thinking of heading to Tromso, then you should also check out our Tromso guide with tips on what to see, do and eat.

Tromso has a lot of accommodation options to choose from. If you haven’t yet decided on where to stay in Tromso, then click here to read our complete guide to our favorite Tromso areas and hotels.

Being out watching the Northern Lights can be a cold experience if you don`t have the right clothes and shoes. Here is a complete packing list of what to bring for a trip to Tromso.

What Is The Northern Lights?

The Northern Lights, also called Aurora Borealis, can only be seen in the northern hemisphere and is strongest above the Arctic Circle (60-degree latitude) like in Northern Norway and Tromso where we live.

Is it a dancing man?

Aurora Borealis dancing in the sky

It was named Aurora Borealis by Galileo as far back as 1619 after Aurora – the Roman goddess of dawn, and Boreas – the Greek name for the north wind.

Northern Lights at Kattfjordeidet, Tromso

Picture from Nasa

Northern Lights from space (picture from Nasa)

The Northern Lights are created when solar wind packed with charged particles come into Earths magnetosphere.

The charged particles, mainly electrons, and protons, get precipitated into the upper atmosphere where their energy is lost causing emitting of colored lights. This emitted light is what we see here down at Earth as Northern Lights.

Here is a great film explaining the Northern Lights:

What Do The Northern Lights look like?

The Northern Lights often appears as a diffuse glow in the sky or as “curtains” in the east-west direction, being shaped by Earth’s magnetic field.

Northern Lights can look similar to curtains

Northern Lights sometimes look like curtains

Northern Lights in Kvaenangen at our cabin in the mountains
It can move incredibly fast, almost like it`s dancing! Pretty awesome!

Northern Lights in KvaenangenMost of the Northern Lights is produced between 90 and 150 km above the ground, and reach out to more than 1000 km.

Northern Lights come in many different colors:

  • Red – The red color of the Northern Lights comes from atomic oxygen that emits at 630 nanometers (red) at the highest altitudes. Red is not so common as green, as our eyes can`t see red very well unless there is intense solar activity.
  • Green – Green is the most common color of the Northern Light. When molecular nitrogen collides with an oxygen atom, energy is transferred, which radiates it away at the green wavelength (557,7 nm).
  • Blue – At even lower altitudes molecular nitrogen and ionized molecular nitrogen creates visible light emission in the form of red and blue (428 nanometers). Blue and purple only shows up at the highest levels of solar activity and is not as common as green.
  • Ultraviolet and infrared – Ultraviolet and infrared lights are also part of many Northern Lights. Ultraviolet auroras have also been seen on Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn.
  • Yellow and pink – Shades of yellow and pink are can also appear in the Northern Lights. These are a mix of red and green or blue. Other shades of red, as well as orange, may be seen on rare occasions. Yellow/ greenish is most common.

How To Predict The Northern Lights?

Since the Northern Lights occur when solar wind hits the Earth`s atmosphere, there are periods and years when the Northern Lights are more likely to appear. Large geomagnetic storms are most common during the peak of the eleven-year sunspot cycle or during the three years after the peak.

There are several web pages and apps where you can check the probability of northern lights, but we like this one:

Our siberian husky dog Varga under the Northern Lights in Kvaenangen

Northern Lights at Kvaenangen

There are several space weather services out there, which forecast the Northern Lights:

There are also several great apps that you can use to predict the Northern Lights.

Northern Lights at Kattfjordeidet, outside of Tromso

Where Is The Best Place To See Northern Lights?

In order to see the Northern Lights, you have to head up north above the Arctic Circle and 60 degrees at least. Tromso in Northern Norway is one of the best places in the world to see the Northern Lights, located at latitude 60 degrees north.

Northern Lights in Tromso city
Tromso is located in the middle of the Northern Lights Oval – the area with the highest probability of seeing the Northern Lights. The Northern Lights Oval is centered around 65 degrees North, and its width is about 10 degrees but expands when the solar activity is strongest.

This makes northern Norway, Sweden, and Finland, Siberia, Alaska, northern Canada, Greenland, and Iceland the places in the world to see Northern Lights. Many of these places are however too remote and uninhabited, and impossible or very difficult to visit.

In Tromso, you can see Northern Lights from late September until April. The best time to witness the Northern Lights is during the middle of winter, from mid-November to mid-January as during these months the sun does not rise above the horizon at all and it is completely dark. This is called the Polar Night and is the perfect period to watch the Northern Lights.

Colourful Northern Lights
In order to see the Northern Lights in its full glory and it is strongest, you have to head out of town to more remote areas with as little artificial lighting as possible. Darkness is your friend when it comes to admiring the Northern Lights. The sky has to be clear and not over-clouded. The darker it is the better, so full moon is not usually the best.

Check out the weather forecast in Tromso before booking your flight tickets.

Northern Lights in Kvaenangen, NorwayNorthern Lights appear on in the evenings, often between 20 and 2 o`clock at night (8 pm and 2 am). But you never know for sure when or where it will show up, which makes the Northern Light hunting even more exciting. When you finally see it, you feel really blessed and privileged and treasure it even more.

Since the Northern Lights are strongest when an active area on the sun faces the Earth, and the sun rotates every 27 days, around every 27 days the Northern Lights activity is, in general, strongest.

Tromso is perfect for Northern Lights watching, as it is a big city (biggest in Northern Norway at least…), with a lot going on besides hunting for Northern Lights, like for instance dog sledding, kayaking, museums, mountain hikes, skiing, reindeer sledding, fishing, sailing, and whale safari.

The city has plenty of hotels and other accommodation options like Airbnb apartments and rooms. Check out Visit Tromso for tips on what to do and see in Tromso.

Tromso has become very popular among Northern Lights hunters over the past few years, and it was the famous British actress Joanna Lumley who kicked it off when she visited Tromso in 2008. Her chase of the Northern Lights was filmed by the BBC and has been watched by millions:

Tromso is easy to get to with excellent flight connections to Oslo (15 daily departures) and is quite mild when it comes to temperature due to the Gulf Stream. Tromso Airport is only ten minutes from the city center by car.

DIY Northern Lights Tour in Tromso

  1. Rent a car
  2. Head out of town to a remote area and sit and wait, like for instance these places:

Kattfjordvannet (30 minutes outside of Tromso center)

Ersfjord (30 minutes outside of Tromso center)

Finnvikdalen (20 minutes outside of Tromso center)

Snarbyeidet (50 minutes outside of Tromso center)

Bring your camera, warm clothes, something to eat and some hot coffee, tea or chocolate. Cross your fingers and hope that the Northern Lights will show up! 🙂 And the more days you have, the more likely you are to get lucky and see nature’s most spectacular light show.

Northern Lights dancing over our cabin in Kvaenangen.
There are also several tour operators doing Northern Lights Chase in and around Tromso. They take you out in the evening to wherever the highest possibility of seeing Northern Lights are. The chase is by bus, minibus, car or boat.

Choose the tour that that is best for you regarding price, the number of people in the group, duration and what you prefer it to include (dinner, photo tour and so on). Joining one of these tours, you have a good chance of finding the Northern Lights even if it takes the whole night.

You can also join a Northern Lights activity, like dog sledding, reindeer sledding, skiing, snowmobile, fjord cruise, horse riding, snowshoe trip, sauna, outdoor camping, and sailing, while watching the Northern Lights. These activities take place in remote areas outside of Tromso city, away from the city lights and light pollution. These are great experiences, especially when the Northern Lights show up, but still great even if you don`t get to see it.

Northern Lights in Ersfjord, Tromso.

If you are unlucky, however, and do not see the Northern Lights, there is always the next-best-thing – the spectacular Northern Lights movie “Experience the Aurora” at Nordnorsk Vitensenter. The film is awesome and is shown every day. A real must-see if you are visiting Tromso, even if you get to see the real thing or not.


Where To Stay In Tromso

Norway, in general, is quite expensive when it comes to accommodation and dining, and Tromso is no exception. Tromso is a small city with a compact downtown, so everything is within a short walking distance. Here are our favorite hotels in Tromsø, at different price ranges.

Also, click here to read our complete guide to our favorite Tromso areas and hotels.


Clarion Collection Hotel With

Clarion Hotel With TromsoHotel With, as it is known locally, has the perfect location right by Tromso Harbour with a beautiful view over the sea and over to the Arctic Cathedral, the Tromso Bridge, Tromsdalstinden mountain and Fjellheisen. You are right in the middle of everything if you choose to stay at this hotel, very close to all the city's restaurants and shops.

An extra plus with this hotel is that you get free coffee/tea and Norwegian waffles with sour cream, jam and brown cheese (Espen`s favorite!) in the afternoon (from 15 to 18 o`clock) and a free meal in the evening (from 18 to 21 o`clock). This makes this hotel a good value for your money as eating out is expensive. A friend of mine from my class at the University used to work here during the weekends, and the staff here is well trained and provides good service and help to the guests.
Click here for the latest prices

Clarion Collection Hotel Aurora

Clarion Hotel Aurora TromsoNext door to Hotel With is its sister hotel Clarion Collection Hotel Aurora. This hotel also has free waffles in the afternoon and an evening meal included in the price. The extra plus of this hotel is the rooftop jacuzzi and sauna! Here you can relax in the evenings and watch the northern lights from the hot tub. Sounds pretty sweet if you ask me!
click here for the latest prices

The Edge Hotel

The Edge Hotel TromsoThe new "star" when it comes to hotels in Tromso is, however, The Edge. It is brand new and has an excellent bar and restaurant which is also very popular among the locals in Tromso. You really should try the hamburger, it is great! The breakfast at The Edge is maybe the best in town with everything you can imagine. Located by the harbor, but further south than the hotels above, and close to the Tourist Information office.
Click here for the latest prices

City Living Hotel & Apartments
This apartment hotel has a central location on the street just above Tromso's main street Storgata. The apartments have a small kitchen, which is handy for making breakfast, lunch or even dinner inside. That way you can save some money by shopping at one of the close-by supermarkets and cook your own food.

The hotel also has a laundry room that the guests can use for free. Very handy as dry cleaning is expensive and there are no other options in town if you want to get your clothes washed. There is, however, no daily cleaning service, but you can help yourself to coffee and clean sheets and towels whenever you want from the second floor. You can easily get here by the Airport Bus (Flybuss) from the airport.
Click here for the latest prices


Amalie Hotel
This is a small budget hotel and a less expensive option than the hotels above. It has an excellent location just next to the big and more expensive Radisson Blu Hotel. An extra bonus is unlimited free coffee and tea the whole day and complimentary waffles in the afternoon. The rooms are a bit small but well equipped with kettle, tea/coffee, mini fridge, iron, and hairdryer. You get a lot for your money. Great breakfast included in the price.
Click here for the latest prices

Comfort Hotel Xpress Tromso
This is a budget hotel with perfect location in Grønnegata, the street adjacent to the city's main street Storgata. The hotel rooms are clean, new and fresh, but a bit small. If you are out all day on tours and sightseeing, then the small rooms will not be a problem. There is no daily housekeeping service. There is no restaurant in the hotel, but it is very close to all the restaurants and cafes that Tromso has to offer. You can get a breakfast discount of 50 % (150 KR) at their sister hotel Clarion Hotel, which is well worth the money as you can eat all you want at their excellent breakfast buffet.
Click here for the latest prices

Smarthotel Tromso
Another budget option with small rooms but well equipped, fresh and modern. The hotel has an excellent location right in the middle of downtown Tromso. You get breakfast included in the price, which is fairly good. You get free coffee and tea the whole day. Great value for your money!
Click here for the latest prices

Renting A Car In Tromso

If you want to explore the areas outside the city center, then a rental car is a great option in Tromso. It's easiest to book the car online before you travel and then pick it up your car at the airport when you arrive. Tromso Airport has cars from several international car rental agencies such as Avis, Hertz, Sixt, Europcar, and Budget.

Click here for the latest prices and to see the available cars to rent in Tromso


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Have you seen Northern or Southern Lights, and if so where? If you have not, is this on your bucket list? Please leave a comment in the comment area below, thanks!

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